Thursday, June 24, 2010

Views from San Cristobal After a Rain


Although it was still a little cloudy (that's cloudy, not smoggy--the rain clears all the smog out) the view was pretty impressive when my friend Laura and I went up to the top of San Cristobal last Saturday after a rain. We both agreed, however, that the view from the street level, in certain areas where you can see the mountains, is really more breathtaking because they are so huge that it feels like you are right under them. Can't wait to head out there to the pistes and take advantage of some of that snow!!

Monday, June 21, 2010

A Tower of Babel Dinner and some Loco Frenchmen

Last week my roommate Kenna decided she wanted to have a dinner party at the apartment and invite a hodgepodge of her international friends. I told her I'd love to help her, we decided on an easy meal of fajitas, and I offered to make the guacamole (one of the only things I know how to make).

As the guests started arriving it quickly became apparent that this dinner party was going to present a unique linguistic challenge. Here's how the guest list stacked up:
2 Spanish only speakers
2 French only speakers
4 Spanish/English speakers
1 French/little bit of English speaker
2 French/Spanish speakers
1 English/Spanish/Italian speaker

At one point, I was in a conversation in which the English/Spanish/Italian speaker was going back and forth between English and Spanish, while the French/Spanish speaker translated for the French only speaker, and I occasionally translated for the Spanish only speaker. Needless to say by the end of the night my head was spinning back and forth between English and Spanish, with a little newly learned French thrown in.

The two French guys (one of which spoke English), it turns out, are traveling around the world in a Citroen C2V, going from Saigon, hitting 5 continents and eventually making their way back to Paris. They are currently in Chile awaiting the arrival of the car by boat so that they can continue their drive up South America, through Central, and all the way North to Canada, before putting the little car back on a boat to Africa. Their story, told to us in VERY broken English, as well as French (which was then translated to Spanish by Kenna), was almost impossible to believe. But, the next morning I gave them a quick Google and, sure enough, their story is true.You can even track their adventure, here, though the Google translation is pretty terrible.

Anyone in DC, NY, or pretty much anywhere along the Eastern seaboard who is interested in giving these guys food, lodging, or work, I can vouch that they are cool, fun guys, and nothing if not interesting and entertaining.

Sunday, June 13, 2010

Futbol Mania

The long awaited Mundial has begun and, as predicted, futbol is all my students can think or talk about. Friday was opening day and, as luck would have it, I had a class--my youngest and most rambunctious--at 10, coinciding exactly with the Mexico-South Africa game. My adolescent male students got increasingly fidgetty and distracted as their fellow students, with the luck to be between classes, cheered from the huge viewing tent that Duoc set up in the courtyard. Needless to say, the boys couldn't be less interested in direction prepositions or "there is/there are" sentence construction.

So, in true pushover fashion, I did exactly what our site coordinator told us not to do, and let them out 40 minutes early. I'm a sucker for boys who love their sports. Hearing their pleas of "Missss, it's the inauguraciónnnn" and watching how they craned their necks toward the window to try to hear the announcer, I couldn't help thinking of my brothers, or guys I know back home. And it was a simple thing they wanted really, to be able to be there and take part in what they had been looking forward to for months. "Ok, go, go." And the look on their faces made it totally worth it.

As I crossed the courtyard on my way to the teachers lounge to get some work done, I ran into three of them heading about to head into the tent. Amidst their excitement, they took a moment to give their soccer novice profe a primer on the rounds system and offer their personal predictions and analysis. "Will you watch the game, miss?""How about when Los estados unidos plays tomorrow, miss??" To be sure, they had the entire bracket and schedule memorized.

When Chile plays Honduras next Wednesday at 7 am, I will most definitely be watching the game. And my morning students most definitely will be too...I cancelled class. With Chile in the Mundial for the first time in twelve years, English (and I'm going to bet every other class, job, meeting, etc) takes a way back seat.

Thursday, June 3, 2010

You Say Tomayto I Say Tomaughto

Has it ever occurred to you that you speak anything other than English? Me neither. Until, that is, I started giving clases particulares (private tutoring) here in Chile. It seems that, unbeknownst to us Americans, what we speak is actually "Norteamericano" while our friends across the pond in Britain speak "English." And the delineation doesn't stop there. Apparently, the abundance of modismos (slang, or expressions) we have and the way that we modulan (pronounce) amounts to, in the opinion of Chileans that I have spoken with about this, a shameful pollution of "English."

My tutees, for example, consider these two "languages" to be so different (and, although they've never flat out told me so, the latter so preferable to the former) that it actually raises concerns for them in their learning of the language. About three times a class, they ask me anxiously, when I introduce a word or phrase, "Now is that Norteamericano or English?" And comments about my "modulation," or that of my compatriots--from the casual English speaker on the street to famous actors my tutees have seen in movies--are a constant part of our lessons.

I take offense to this. And none too little. Perhaps it's because I've always thought of myself (call it a vanity of mine) as an extremely clear speaker, with excellent enunciation and pronunciation. I like words and language and I make a conscientious effort to know as much as I can about their correct usage. So, when someone tells me that I don't actually speak the language that I think I do, it irks me. I've found myself, more than once, snapping back at my poor tutees, "This difference that you think there is, between "Norteamericano" and "English," it's NOT THERE."

That's probably wrong of me. Not only because they are just observing what they hear, but also because, on some level, they are right, there are differences. Not on the level of different languages, but dialects, certainly. It's true, there are plenty of words that Americans use that British don't, and vice-versa, and, of course, there is the difference in accent, not only between British and American speakers but amongst speakers of each group, depending on geographic area, socio-economic status, age, and un monton of other factors. I have no problem with my tutees observing and commenting on that. But it's the idea of superiority that they seem to attach to English, that is, the English of Great Britain, that bothers me.

What is most interesting to me about this is that my tutees, as Chileans, are sure to have been the victims of this kind of linguistic snobbery. One of the first things I was told when I came to Chile, and one of the first things people--Chileans--say to me when I tell them I came here to improve my Spanish, is that Chilean Spanish is "terrible." Chileans are the first ones to deprecate their speech, but I have to believe that this is undoubtedly the result of criticism by other Latin American countries and Spain. Chileans will bring up their tendency to cut off the ends of words, speak extremely fast, and use modismos that only Chileans would understand. They call this speaking "badly" or "incorrectly." And perhaps, because they have become comfortable with being categorized as "bad" speakers, they don't see any problem with criticizing the speech of others.

But, I happen to like Chilean Spanish. Having lived here for a few months now I've gotten used to the way that they speak, have become familiar with some (only a handful relatively speaking) of their modismos, and even have gotten comfortable enough to use a few of them in my own speech. Chilean Spanish is unique, and endearing, and interesting to listen to and try to understand. And so what if it's not what they speak in Spain, or Argentina, or Mexico. Language is nothing if not dynamic, it's constantly changing and evolving to serve its only real purpose: communication. And that's why when Chileans make comments to me about their speech, saying "We speak badly" or advising me not to pick up their habits, I disagree with them, insisting that their speech is not wrong but merely different.

I'm not afraid to learn and practice Spanish with Chileans. Yes, perhaps if, someday in the future, I travel to Mexico and ask a Mexican woman if she has a pololo (Chilenismo for "boyfriend"), she'll look at me like I have two heads. Or if I go back to Spain to visit my host mother and when she calls me to lunch I say I'll be there al tiro (Chilean for "right away"), she will think I'm talking about a gunshot, which is the original meaning of tiro. But is speaking Spanish with Chileans going to pollute my knowledge of the language? Absolutely not. Just like learning English from a North American (because English is what they are learning, not this "Norteamericano" business) is not going to be detrimental to my tutees. They are not learning an incorrect version of English. I like to think that I'm teaching them practical, real life, and, to the extent that it's necessary, grammatically correct use of the English language. Hopefully they can get over their fear of Norteamericano so that they can move towards fluency in English.

A few changes

It’s been busier than usual the past week and a half or so. First, I moved last Tuesday, into my new apartment in a neighborhood of Santiago called, amusingly, El Golf. I have a great new room (HUGE closet, HUGE bed) and two lovely new roommates, Kenna and Juliette. Kenna is Chilean and works at the French embassy, and Juliette is German and teaches it here. I’m happy that I decided to take the plunge and switch locations, though I definitely miss certain things about my old spot—the closeness to my school, how close everything was (El Golf is more residential, so certain conveniences are a little farther away), and all the little hang outs that I had gotten used to in the past 3 months. But I’m sure that in a few weeks I’ll have a whole new set of spots that I’m hitting up daily.

I also am in the process of securing a potential second job. I’ll hold off on details until it’s a sure bet (there are still a few issues to work out with my visa status), but it would be a great opportunity for me (and a nice little source of extra income). However, needless to say, if I start up with it, my schedule is going to get a lot more filled, very quickly. Though I’m thrilled about the job itself I go back and forth between feeling a) it’s about time I get into a routine that more closely resembles the hectic one I had back in D.C. and b) like I’ll really miss having a pretty good chunk of free time (to do things like write this blog). But it's definitely an opportunity that I don't want to pass up and I think I'll enjoy having a little more on my plate. 

And...it's official...I'm going to have my first visitor in July! My college roommate Sarah is coming for 8 days and I couldn't be more excited. I can't wait to show her around Santiago and we are taking a long weekend trip to San Pedro de Atacama--the driest desert in the world and supposedly one of the most breathtaking places in Chile. I'm counting the days!!!